Case Study: A Clockwork Orange (1971)

This Case Study provides a format for analyzing the role of costume in film. Keep in mind that the emphasis is on costume and its relationship to fashion. Filmic aspects, such as directing and plot development are only relevant as they connect to costume.

1. Screen the film.

Consider also viewing the original promotional poster in the country of origin.

2. Provide basic information about the costume designer.

Milena Canonero is a highly awarded costume designer. She is responsible for the looks in Clockwork Orange (1971), Barry Lyndon (1975), The Shining (1980), Chariots of Fire (1981), The Cotton Club (1984), Out of Africa (1985) and most recently, Marie Antoinette (2006) for which she won her 3rd Academy Award. She also did the costume design for the television series Miami Vice. Importantly she consciously works with obvious color palettes.

3. Identify the context - Filmic context includes the original when and where the book or script was written, the when and where the film takes place and the when and where the film was shot. All 3 factors influence costume.

4. Provide a short summary of the film. Providing the trailer is helpful.

Based on a novel by Anthony Burgess from 1962, it is a dystopia version of the future told in first person. A young man Alex living in London loves classical music and is part of a delinquent gang that loves violence. Alex murders a woman and is sent to prison where he is submitted to re-conditioning in which classical music is set to violence and he no longer has free will. He eventually returns to society but is captured by one of his victims. By the end he no longer has an aversion to music or violence. The has been highly controversial for its emphasis on violence. See the trailer.

5. Give an overview of the main characters (no more than 5).

Alex & Dim are the key members of the Droogs. They dress similarly in white with suspenders and black derby hats.

Alex and Dim differentiate from the other members of the Droogs with colored button shirts. Dim is made separate through a striped shirt, suggesting the narrative tension between him and Alex.

The victims appear in casual home attire. Below Mr. Alexander is in a bathrobe and then in pajamas. The look is comfortable but also vulnerable.

Later at the second meeting Alex reveres the look by taking the bathrobe and making himself at home.

The "Cat Lady" is exercising at home in a leotard that is similarly relaxed and vulnerable. The victims are also all leisure class, suggesting class tensions.

6. Describe the color palette.

There is likely a dominate or primary color set, supported by a secondary set of colors. It is not possible to calibrate most screens for viewing films and images so the color swatches are a best estimation. You should look at the costume but can consider how costume colors relate to the set as well.

7. Provide a characterization study.

Focus on the looks of one main character and how the clothing supports the narrative. Polyvore is a helpful site for building the looks. Alex has 3 main costume characterizations: the Droogs, the flaneur and the socialized man. When possible original illustrations help with explanation.

Look 1: The Droogs

White shirt & pants

Sporting cup

Suspenders

Black top hat

Black cane

Black boots

Eyelash

Cane

Straight jacket & butcher reference

Punk and street elements

Look 2: The Flaneur

Full length purple velvet coat

Colored shirt

Cane

Historic

Flamboyant

Dandy

Royalty

Look 3: The Socialized Man

Black suit

Blue shirt

Tie

Working professional

“The Man

Alex becomes submerged in suits in prison. Following prison he returns home and faces his father suit to suit.

8. Depending on your film, you should also identify any ways in which the film may have influenced fashion at large.

A Clockwork Orange was influential in punk and skinhead look in London and has created a cult following. There are several fans as seen below from Polyvore creations. House & Garden also recognized the aesthetics of the film in the 25 most influential films on design.